Going To Naples
By Eudora Welty, first published in Harper's Bazaar
A mother and daughter join the community of passengers on a ship to Naples. Scorning and delighting in one another’s peculiarities, vying for transient social status and partnerships, the colorful group awaits the varied promises of their destination.
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Plot Summary
Mrs. Serto and her daughter Gabriella, loud and unafraid of public argument, board The Pomona sailing from New York to Naples. They take stock of their many shipmates – six young girls and six young men (but only two viable for courtship), soon-to-be priests, older Italian men and women, two Black men headed to Cape Verde. Gabriella displays wildly erratic behavior – screaming at her mother, at ship announcements, often for no reason at all; pulling Aldo Scampo’s chair out from under him to initiate a veritable fighting match on all fours in the middle of the main deck. Oddly, the passengers seem to enjoy this gruesome entertainment, lifting them from the anxieties of their journey. The two fighters develop a rapport spanning from all-out brawls to bashful kisses.
Gabriella isn’t the only character on board – old Papa blows a tinny whistle to call attention to passengers just at their most compromising moments, and the young betrothed Poldy rattles on about his soon-to-be-sweetheart to anyone who will listen. Mama Serto frets over her daughter’s marriageability but intercepts Aldo’s come-ons whenever they appear. Mr. Ugone boldly endeavors to convince his dinner table on Gala Night that the beauty of Genoa – his final destination – far outstrips that of Napoli or Rome. That evening passes in a glowing trance, with Gabriella’s suddenly graceful dancing calling all eyes upon her spinning figure. Finally, with much excitement, the Sicilians in the party disembark at Palermo. Papa sings for the remaining passengers on their final night.
The group wakes to the creaking, clamoring, golden glow of Naples’ port, crowding down the gangplank. Each observes the welcoming party of the others, Gabriella and Mama Serto’s being their placid, knowing Nonna. Aldo has picked up his cello – it turns out he’s come to Italy to study cello in Rome – and finally Mama shakes him away from Gabriella, who swirls in the great golden moment of goodbye.